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Jun 08

Helen´s Great Galapagos Adventure

Part 1

sunny 25 °C
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Well,what can I say? You need to get your butt over there now, pronto, horita, maintenant. Before they put the entrance fee up again.
I'd already booked my flight for the 11th June so all I had to do was work out whether I wanted to do a 4 day or 8 day trip. I ended up opting for the 4 day with a couple of nights on Santa Cruz and San Cristobal before and after.

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QUEEN OF GALAPAGOS

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A ROOM WITH A VIEW! (The view from the toilet)

On the bus from the airport I met Krin and Lee Ann from Florida and it turned out we were on the same cruise so we hung out until it started. They were really cool and had lots of get up and go, unlike some backpackers I know who think they are "travelling" by going out and getting drunk at night then sleeping all day!!! Very Adventurous, NOT.
We stayed on Santa Cruz in Puerto Ayora and managed to get alot of stuff done while we were there. Laguna Las Ninfas and Las Grietas were great swimming places.

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KRIN AND LEE ANN AT LAGUNA LAS NINFAS

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LAS GRIETAS

We headed off for our cruise and after some confusion about where the boat was, we started our land trip to see the giant tortoises or galapagos as they are known and who the islands are named after. I couldn't get over the size of them, they are absolutely enormous. After seeing them, I managed to get a go in an old shell. Very strange!!!!

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A VERY LARGE TORTOISE

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DOES MY BUM LOOK BIG IN THIS?

The next day we went to North Seymour Island where we got chance to see Blue-Footed Boobies and Frigate birds, Marine Iguanas, sealions and lava lizards. This place is amazing!!!

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BLUE-FOOTED BOOBIES

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MALE FRIGATE BIRD

The rest of the morning was spent snorkelling which was spectacular. Just as we dropped into the water, I headed off on my own and spotted a white-tip shark YEH. Loads of fish and interesting things to see but the highlight was the shark.
The afternoon was spent on bachas beach on Santa Cruz where we spent the whole time swatting horse flies!!! Evil things they are. We went to see a small lagoon where there were flamingos and as we were watching, a marine Iguana swam in front of us. COOL

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FLAMINGOS AND MARINE IGUANAS

The end of day 2 and we were all exhausted- I was expecting the guys to party but everyone was asleep by 10pm!!!, Me too. This is the end of part one, more to follow!

Posted by hellcat1uk 28.06.2008 11:07 Archived in Ecuador Comments (0)

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Manu jungle explorer

or, a walk in the woods!

sunny 24 °C
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I totally forgot abut this trip, with all the excitement, its easy to forget 4 days melting in the jungle heat and trying to avoid being attacked by mosquitos!
We left Cusco at 5am and headed for Atalaya via inca tombs and a couple of villages. We stayed overnight in a lodge before heading out on a raft. The group were cool and seemed to get on OK. We stopped to go to a lookout to see the national bird of Peru, "the cock of the rock" and there were loads of them, although with the forest lighting they were difficult to get good shots of.

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COCK OF THE ROCK

The rafting was a little hairy as we had an extra person on our side and coordinating strokes was a little difficult. Thankfully the river wasn't too rough. I think if it had been we might have spent some time swimming!!!!
There was a cool Macaw at the rafting centre called Lola although she did many tricks I wasn't letting her anywhere near my fingers.

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LOLA THE MAD MACAW

After the rafting we got into a small launch and headed for our lodge which was about 25 minutes downstream. Some of the water was a little rough and I'm not sure how we stayed upright. Our lodge was built right on the riverside where the water flow changes direction so it was kind of interesting getting through the rapids and then the boat having to turn against the current.
The 1st evening we headed out on a night walk in our gum boots and torches. We were only a small way from our lodge when we spotted monkeys. They were easy to see jumping between the trees but impossible to photograph. We also spotted a caiman but not much else of any size. We saw a few spiders and many moths in my headtorch light so we headed back to camp.
The next day we were going to get up early to see the Colpa or clay lick where the parrots get there minerals but it was raining too hard so we got a lie in till 0630hrs!! The rain had stopped and we headed for our canopy ziplines. Those of you who know me well are aware of my fear of heights but will be surprised to know that I managed to zip through the forest canopy 60 metres above the ground!!! Well it was included and you know how I like a bargain!!!!

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CANAOPY ZIPLINE

As it turned out, the parrot clay lick was a bit of a disapppointment. The photos they show you when they sell you the trip are obviously taken with a super-duooper camera as when we got there we were at least 150metres away on the other side of the river. My tip is get some binoculars or they look like greenfly!
The days passed really quickly. One day we went to see the local shamen but he was away!!! How dare he not be there!
We saw a few strange birds that look like turkeys but sound like a cow, thinks its called a Hoatzin. We also saw some nocturnal monkeys who had, unwisely decided to sleep just above the tourist path. Not very clever of them. This photo wa staken by Bjorn as he was the only one with a good enough camera.

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NOCTURNAL MONKEY FAMILY


I really enjoyed the jungle although would have liked to see more wildlife. I know like anything in nature nothing is guarenteed but would probably try to go to Puerto Maldonado and fly back if I had the money.

Posted by hellcat1uk 22.06.2008 14:04 Archived in Peru Comments (0)

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Lima to Ecuador

Fantastic grey skies!!!

overcast 20 °C
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I was looking forward to reaching lima as I was meeting up with a girl and her daughter who I had met in Cusco. This was the only highlight of Lima for me. What a grey and dismal city!!. Its probably fine if the sun is shining but it wasn't and I was told it wasn't likely to!!
Met up with my friend and went for a "couple" of drinks.


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The next day I decided to get the hell out of dodge and booked a ticket to Trujillo further north. Bought Cruz del Sur as several buses have been held up on this route when they stop for passengers. Got there and surprise, surprise, more grey skies. Only wanted to visit to see Chan Chan, so booked a day tour then my ticket out to Ecuador!
In the morning we went to Huaca del la luna (moon temple) which is pre-inca (Michu tribe if i remember right) then in the afternoon to Chan Chan, also pre-inca but this time chimu tribe. It originally covered 28 square km and housed 60,000 people, you can only visit a small part that has been restored but many of the other walls are still visible and stretch into the distance.

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Chan Chan


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Restoration work at Chan Chan

The last part was a detour to Huanchaca by the sea, pretty touristy but good surf.
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Surfs up

Then 6 hours hanging around waiting for my overnight bus to Guayaquil, Ecuador. Galapagos here I come!!!!
I know the blogs a little short but little to say for once and very tired and hot. Will be sure to make full report from the islands!! xx

Just a couple more photos to add!!

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Moon temple Trujillo


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Fantastic hairless Peruvian dogs

Posted by hellcat1uk 10.06.2008 12:52 Archived in Peru Comments (0)

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Escape from Cusco to Arequipa

condors and crazy nuns!!!

sunny 21 °C
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At last I've broken free from the clutches of Cusco!! 6 weeks is a long time in one place for me although must admit it was great to unpack and put my photos in my room.
Arequipa is only 9 hours by bus but the differences are noticeable.
1) there is no-one trying to sell me a tour on the street
2) If I want a massage, pedicure or manicure I will have to find them myself!
3) I can walk on the pavements without risking injury from the Cusco banana-skin pavements
4) Prices are much more to my liking- hostel for 2 nights 24 soles.

Up for a busy old time, 1st trip was to Colca canyon for 1 day trip. I'd been advised by friends that hiking in the canyon wasn't suitable for me (vertigo girl!) so booked the trip and waited to get picked up at 2am yes I said 2am. They were only 20 minutes late which is pretty good by Peru standards. Nearly froze to death on the trip to Chivay and when we arrived at the spot for breakfast we were given blankets. A little like stable door and horse but nevermind. Had the smallest breakfast ever and headed through some villages to the condor lookout. The area is agricultural but now also survives off the tourists. I couldn't believe there were children doing the traditional dance in the main square at 0630am, also people with llamas and falcons for photos.

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As ur guide kept reminding us this is their livelihood. The best part was at the condor lookout. Nothing to start but then spotted a couple taking practice flights, after that there was no stopping them. They were everywhere and I can tell you a 2.80m bird flying overhead is pretty impressive! Dad you need to come see them.

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The canyon is impressive and I think the 2nd deepest in the world. If you want to know how deep, "google" it!
Stopped on the way back to look at vicuñas, a smaller relative of the llama who are protected in Peru.
Absolutely pooped so early night
Day 2 up early due to usual peruvian taxi drivers horn beeping. In the Uk they'd have been fined for noise pollution! Off to Santa Catalina convent which was built around 1579 and was closed to outsiders for 391 years. One story goes that the nuns who entered were from wealthy families and continued their luxury living inside the convent. Eventually after a few hundred years a stern mother superior took over and the good times changed. Don't know for sure the truth and the convent certainly weren't giving anything away to make the catholic church look bad!!! The convent is huge and has 6 streets inside it. there are still 24 nuns there but you don't see them and they do little of any use except praying and penitance.

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Next visit was to see Juanita the ice princess. The body of a young girl was found on a mountain near Arequipa at 6300metres. She had been sacrificed 500 years ago but her organs and much of her skin are intact as she was protected by ice. fascinating insight into the beliefs of the incas and the incredible feat of climbing to the top of a mountain without oxygen, in sandals and with 2500 servants in tow!!!

Posted by hellcat1uk 03.06.2008 13:26 Archived in Peru Comments (0)

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MACHU PICHU

or now you see it now you don't!!!

semi-overcast 20 °C
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I'd originally planned on doing a trek to machu pichu but what with volunteering etc I didn't have the time so Elizabeth and I headed up for the weekend on the overpriced backpackers train.
We left Cusco at 0650hrs and got to Aguas Calientes at around 1115hrs. Found a cheap hostal and had the hottest shower I've ever had. (In Cusco I'm used to only 3 minutes of nearly warm water if I'm lucky!) We bummed around for the afternoon and had a fairly early night after some entertainment from Omar, the child from the restaurant opposite our hostal who put on a fine show of card tricks and gymnastics.
The next morning we were up after a poor nights sleep. They seemed to be having a private party (if you know what I mean!) upstairs and people werer constantly banging on doors to wake people up at ridiculous times. We dragged ourselves to the bus at 0515hrs and joined the hoards already waiting. The drive up was a little daunting as there are many steep drops and the driver was stirling mosses brother! Eventually got through the entrance and headed up to get a good viewpoint for the sunrise. We couldn't see anything at all, so spent some time with the locals!
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ME AND FRIEND


The whole place was covered in mist and at first I thought someone had moved it.
Gradually the mist lifted, descended and lifted again. The view was stunning and everyone was merrily snapping away in case the mist came back. we wandered around following random tour groups as we didn't have a map. You are supposed to get one with your tickets in Aguas Callientes, but we didn't! Between us we had an English, french and Spanish commentary, although the guides seemed to have differing views about machu pichu's purpose-interesting eh!

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I turned down the chance to climb Waynu Pichu due to my vertigo and the fact that some of the people heading up didn't look like they'd make it without problems. Some looked fit to drop after the short walk to the start!! We spent 4 hours at the site and then headed down to boring old AC and slept on the bench while we waitd for the train home. You definitely need to see it but a weekend trip is as expensive as a 5 day salkantay trek. I'll leave the rest up to you!

Posted by hellcat1uk 02.06.2008 16:35 Archived in Peru Comments (0)

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