Potosi, Sucre and Candalaria
silver mines, cakes and countryside!
08.04.2008 - 14.04.2008
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We arrived in Potosi, the highest city in the world at 4070m and boy can you tell you're up high!. Just taking a stroll round the town takes its toll. Unlike Argentina, the day here begins early and ends early. In Argentina we were eating dinner at 10 or 11 at night. here it is more like 6-7pm and then home to bed at 10pm!
Potosi is quite a nice place. famous for its silver mines on cerro rico (rich mountain). So much silver and other metals have been found here and theres still plenty more. Jeroen and Eveline took a mine tour whilst I declined because I thought I'd be claustrophobic. After their trip i was glad I chose not to go as it sounded like you needed to be a contortionist to get through some of the holes!!!! The mines are well known for being pretty grim places to work and the life expectancy of the miners after they start work is only 10 years. pretty sad. Engineers worked out that as there are so many mines, the tunnels should have collapsed 7 years ago!!!! Another good reason for not going down there. Must watch the film "Devils mine" when i get home.
Instead of the mines we decieded to visit the Casa de la Moneda. The Potosi mint where coins were minted from the 1500's. Really worth the 20 bolivianos entrance and we were able to see the old machines used to make the coins. Unfortunately they were powered by mules, who didn't last long and then by african slaves who didn't fair much better.

The city is nice and explored the markets. the most novel thing we spotted were cake stalls in the full sun with over the top cakes for whatever occasion!!!! amazing

The highlight of the stay was the silver museum on avenida ecuador www.museoplatapt.com.bo
The guy who runs it was really cool and showed us how he melts the silver - active participation is encouraged! He tells the story of how the siver was originally discovered and then you get to see his collection (pretty impressive!).
Well worth visiting but phone beforehand to check if he's there. We were lucky and we even got to leave our big backpacks while we visited. I got to wear one of the silver crowns he had made.

After much messing around and changes of bus times we arrived in Sucre. pretty town at lower altitude than Potosi, the judicial centre of Bolivia. Stayed for 1 night before we went out to the countryside to see the local weaving in Candalaria. (thanks to Claire for arranging it). We set off with our driver Xavier and had a brief stop in Tarabuco where we would visit the market the following day. On to Candalaria where we visited the weaving museum and then went to see one of the ladies work. Santusina invited us to lunch and arranged for us to stay overnight and have dinner with her family, then her husband Damian took us for a walk in the local area. really beautiful and quiet. They are in the process of building a hostal for tourists to stay in, so we stayed in a kind of building site although it was warm and clean. If you're interested its the 1st house on the right as you enter the village. The next day we gave them a lift to the market in Tarabuco which was heaving with stalls of weaving and othe crafts.

We had been told that a lot of the things for sale weren't locally made so we had the advantage of having seen what to buy in Candalaria. All in all an excellent 100 bolivanos well spent on the private transport and another 40 for lunch, dinner and a bed. The people were so friendly, I'd recommend staying in candalaria unless you really need an inside toilet and hot running water!
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Posted by hellcat1uk 20.04.2008 11:48 Archived in Bolivia Comments (0)






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