Travel Blogs by Travellerspoint

Mar 08

Peninsula Valdes

Had a 'whale' of a time

sunny 18 °C
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After 24 more hours travelling, I finally arrived in Puerto Madryn on the east coast. There I had decided to stay on the peninsula itself and this involved a further 5 hour wait for another bus. When I eventually got there I found there were only 2 guests!! No comments about the hostel but only stayed one night! Decided to make the most of the peace and quiet so headed off for a wander.There is some fantastic bird-life to be seen and I wish I had a book so I could check out what I'm seeing. I hadn´t realised that the peninsula was so enormous. It is impossible to get to see any of the sea-life without having a car or going on an excursion. I chose Patagonia El Maximo for a day-trip around the peninsula and it was superb. Marisa the guide and Carlos the driver couldn´t have been better. Really passionate about nature and their jobs. Tour was in Spanish and English so I got the commentary twice. We headed to Punta Norte and only had an hour there but saw the elephant seals and new pups on the beach and spotted 2 killer whales just off shore!!!


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ELEPHANT SEALS AT PUNTA NORTE

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KILLER WHALE FIN FROM A DISTANCE........HONEST!

Apparently they had already breakfasted on seals that morning so no gory seal launching spotted ( thank goodness). WE also spotted loads of Armadillos, actally didn't need to spot tham as they ran between your legs when you weren´t watching! I had been told that they were really hard to spot, yeh, if you have no eyes.!


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FURRY ARMADILLO SNOOK UP BEHIND ME!


We drove some more then stopped to see a small colony of Magellanic penguins and took some cool photos. They live in burrows so a lot of them wre snoozing and many were losing their feathers. I tried to take photOs of the 'cute' ones


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CLEANING TIME

There is a much larger colony further south approximately 300,00 birds, but funds wouldn't allow 2 trips!! Then off for lunch (hurrah for vegetables!) and to check out the sea-lions, although was a little upset that there were only about 16 as most of them were off fishing. I had an excellent day and met some lovely people then managed to get my pack from the hostel and blag a lift back to Puerto Madryn for the 15 hour overnight bus to (San Carlos de)Bariloche. Oh the joys of long-distance buses, and you all think I'm having fun????

Posted by hellcat1uk 23.03.2008 14:12 Archived in Argentina Comments (0)

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Torres Del Paine and Chilean Patagonia

or ouch my wallet hurts!!!

sunny 19 °C
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Fairwell to sunny Buenos Aires and hello the cold and blustery south of Chile. I met up with my trek buddy and all seemed well with the world (like that would last!!!). Spent a couple of days in Punta Arenas, a military town and the people were great. Some of them actually spoke English and in fact, even if I spoke Spanish they replied in English. See, just trying to improve their language skills but not helping me much. Headed off to Puerto Natales which is a small town and the jumping off point to Torres Del Paine national Park. Two days there to get sorted out for some serious trekking. I thought that I'd packed pretty light but had taken one things that was real heaavvvyyyy. My trekking partner (Names have been changed to protect the innocent!!). Before heading to the park we discussed our route, I thought we were doing the standard 'W' route that a lot of people take. It then transpired that he had bad ankles.....knees.......bad back........high blood pressure........and..........the biggest camera I've seen this side of David Bailey! He'd also bought new, yes NEW boots, doh
I was starting to get a bad feeling about the whole trip but all was planned and off we went. I decided if it got that bad I could push him over a cliff!

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A BEAUTIFUL VIEW ON THE WAY TO VALLE FRANCES

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LAGO PEHOE ON DAY 1

The scenery is spectacular and took many photos. After one day I took to either going faster or slower than my partner so I didn't have to listen to the constant whining. I know that I can chat (understatement) but it was beautiful and the silence was perfect, and he was ruining it.

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GREY GLACIAR

We stayed in the park for 5 days and then I managed to lose him.
The walks I did alone were actually better, I climbed up to see Las Torres at 0430hrs with a german and belgian couple. It was a bit of a trek in the pitch-black and a bit cloudy so the colours weren't great, but it was the doing it 'bit' that was great.

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LAS TORRES

Headed for El Calafate and somehow our bags managed to get from Puerto natales to Torres Del Paine and onto a tourist bus from El calafate which we used to hop the border. We used Hospadaje Nancy in Puerto natales and Andrea was excellent at organising everything and didn't cream off a high commission like some unnameable hostels! Spent a few days in El calafate which is a pretty little (but rapidly expanding) town and the jumping off spot for Perito Moreno glaciar.

Posted by hellcat1uk 22.03.2008 12:20 Archived in Chile Comments (0)

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The singing man of Lapa

crazy Cariocas!!

Posted by hellcat1uk 08.03.2008 18:43 Archived in Brazil Comments (0)

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Viva Buenos Aires

What a great place!

semi-overcast 28 °C
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SL380189.jpgSL380179.jpgSL380197.jpgSL380187.jpgArrived on the saturday morning, whilst most of the city were just coming home after a good night out!! Say no more. I stayed in Recoleta which is a pretty good area and not too far from all the sights of the big smoke. Within the 1st morning while waiting to check into the hostel I had seen the casa rosada, obelisque and national congress. There are so many beautiful buildings, apparently of french influence and many parks with homeless people who have made camp there. Sunday saw me up bright and early and off to San Telmo. There is a well-known market there , a little like a flea market with local artists and people selling old jewellry etc. Also able to see tango performances in the street, although I feel that they lacked a little of the passion that we associate with the dance. I reckon my gran moves better!!!
Monday saw me going to La Boca with Sivina from Argentina and Lara from Paris. The area is wel-known for its brightly coloured houses and the La Boca juniors football team. By all acounts from others, you can only visit a couple of tourist streets where you can watch tango and be ripped off with expensive food and drinks. A local old lady passed us and told us to watch our bags and there are police on every corner making sure that you don´t stray as it is dangerous both day and night. I wasn´t going to test this theory so we headed back. The next day we visited the cemetery at Recoleta. A perfect representation of keeping up with the Jones`s. Each mausoleum was bigger and grander than the next. the whole place is pretty macabre. Many of the mausoleums are not tended to and the glass of the doors is broken so you could, if you had the urge, actually touch the coffins. I personally found the whole experience weird, probably cos us brits are in the habit of burning or sticking people out of sight when they die. We followed the crowds and found Evitas family mausoleum, It is not as spectacular as many and you could easily pass by without noticing.
Another day another companion, this time Tom from Hollywood. We headed to see a couple of museums including the museo del bellas artes. There are some great pieces there and the added bonus is its free!! Coming from the UK, I found it facscinating that the art museum is not air conditioned so all the Miros, Monets, Rembrandts etc are open to the high humidity. The only room air conditioned was the really old paintings. You can also take flash photos and no-one blinks an eye. I wonder how long the pictures will last like this?
Party on last night in hostel and compared notes with a couple of people from Valencia about the mad girl in dorm. Personally, I thought it was just me who thought she was crazy, although now found that everyone else in the hostel thinks the same!!! Played a drinking game but I wasn´t drinking as have to get taxi at 0400hrs for flight to Chile. I was pretty rubbish at it so glad I wasn´t drinking!!!!!!! Now off to Chile for Tores Del Paine national park so further reports when back to civilisation?!?

Posted by hellcat1uk 08.03.2008 13:44 Archived in Argentina Comments (0)

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Argentina or bust!

From Brazil to Argentina and then some

sunny 32 °C
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SL380158.jpgSL380155.jpgSL380151.jpgAt last, the border between Argentia and Brazil. Apart from the usual border controls the only difference was the flags painted on the kerbstones and the lively bus driver who suddenly produced an Argentinian flag and proceeded to wave it furiously at any passing traffic!!!
Into the Argentinian side of the falls and much more natural than the touristy Brazillian side. It must be said that even though Argentina has the lion`s share of the falls and you can pretty close to them, both above and below, Brazil has the better panoramic view.
One day in the park was nowhere near enough and I could have gone back for a second visit but lost my ticket and would have had to pay full price again!! You know me, tight yourkshire bird! Spent the next couple of days in Puerto Igauazu with some girls I met in Brazil and then decided to head for Estero Del Ibera in the northeast. Know one seemed to have heard of it apart from the Argentinians! Most straining bus journey yet (although they have been pretty easy!) 9 hour bus to Corrientes then 3 hr bus to Mercedes and finally 4 hr trip on the rickety road and finally arrived in Colonia Carlos Pelligrini.
Estero Del Ibera is a wetland area in the Northeast of Argentina, apparently covering 13000 square kilometres which I thought was pretty impressive. Managed to do my usual trick of being the only guest in the hostel. I had planned on staying in Mercedes but Graziella at Delicias Del Ibera hostel said I would be better going straight there. Must admit she was great and sorted out accommodation, walks, boat trips and horse riding.
Cut to the chase, It was fantastic. Went out on a launch and saw capybaras, just like a big guinea pig and apparently the largest rodent in the world. Thought that they would run away as soon as they saw us but obviously used to humans so got some great close-ups. I was told that they eat them in Argentina but no Margaret, i didn`t!!
There are around 400 species of birds including storks and egrets, birds of prey and one that looks a little bit like a turkey. We also saw several Caimans on our trip. The horse riding was a little less exciting and managed to do 2 circuits of the town streets. Bit of a let down as thought that we would be riding near the wildlife. Another highlight was seeing some monkeys on a nature walk. My guide swore that the loud noises we were hearing were Capybaras, but they sounded pretty monkey-like to me. Eh voila, a monkey in a tree trying to protect his palm nuts from the marauding humans.

Posted by hellcat1uk 06.03.2008 14:03 Archived in Argentina Comments (0)

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